Bunny Care Guide
Preparing For The Arrival Of You Bunny
It can be a very exciting time knowing that your bunny will soon be coming home! This may be the time in which you get all the supplies needed for your bunny. Please take a look at our product recommendations HERE.
I highly recommend having the following items before bringing your bunny home:
A safe space for your bunny- Ex. cage, hutch, kennel, enclosure. Make sure this space is safe from your bunny getting hurt and escaping.
Make sure that the exercise space for your bunny is bunny proof and there are no cords or dangerous things you bunny may chew or eat.
Make sure to have a water and food bowl
Make sure to have hay and food – please see below for diet recommendations or product recommendations HERE. I will provide transitional food, but you will want to have the food you plan on feeding your bunny available as well.
Purchase any safe toys or treats you wish to give your bunny- I have more information regarding this below
Purchase any grooming supplies you may need
Purchase a pet carrier for your bunny to safely come home in
Bringing Your Bunny Home
When you first bring your bunny home, they may be a little shy and timid in their new environment. Please set the carrier down in their “safe area” and allow them to come out and explore on their own. Your bunny may be a little stressed from the car ride home, so please allow plenty of time for your bunny to warm up and get used to their new home. It is important to be patient and not stress out your bunny. Let your bunny come to you. Bunnies are prey species so always approach your bunny slowly. I always recommend petting your bunny on their head, calming them down, before picking up. Some bunnies will not like to be picked up or held. This is normal.
Set up the litter box provided and make sure they have access to it. Put their hay in their hay rack or in their litter box (Bunnies poop and pee where they eat)
Allow them to warm up and then you may begin to bond with your bunny.
Ways to bond with your bunny:
Hand feed them their pellets
Hand feed them a little bit of organic old fashioned rolled oats- NO more than a teaspoon/tablespoon per day
While they are eating, softly pet them on the head
Holding Your Bunny
Bunnies are prey species ( They are eaten by other animals) and therefore do not enjoy being picked up or held. BUT the more you handle from the start the more likely they will tolerate being held.
Never chase or reach quickly towards your bunny. This may frighten them.
Sit next to your bunny and let them get used to your voice.
Offer treats to your bunny to earn their trust. Treats can include pellets, greens, or organic rolled oats.
Pet your bunny as they eat to get them used to your touch
Pet your bunny on the head, calm them down, prior to picking up
Do this often so that your bunny is used to being handled especially since you will need to handle them in order to brush them, trim their nails and check for any injuries or health issues.
Hold your bunny firmly but gently. Support their back and hindquarters and hug them close to your body to help them feel most secure
Never pick up a bunny by it’s ears , arms, or legs
Approach slowly and talk quietly
Bunnies do have sharp nails so if your child is nervous about sharp nails put a blanket on his/ her lap.
Never allow a child to hold a bunny inappropriately
Make sure that your bun can’t jump out of your arms or they risk being severely injured.
Litter Box Training
Bunnies poop and pee where they eat
Keep hay inside their litter box or above it in a hay rack
Start your bun off in a smaller safe area, this will encourage your bun to poop and pee in the litter box versus where they like to lie down.
Overtime your bunny will get used to where it is okay to go potty.
If they have an accident, wipe their pee with a paper towel and put it in their litter box, but do not allow them to chew or eat it. The smell will encourage them to pee where their scent is.
Some buns may regress if not neutered or spayed, or if another bunny is introduced in their environment. They may have “territorial” droppings.
Neutering and spaying will help dramatically with litter box training
Bunnies like to pee on soft fabrics and bedding
Male bunnies can spray and females can flick their pee
Some bunnies may never be fully potty trained.
NEVER punish your bunny if they poop and pee where they are not supposed to, this will lead to aggression towards you.
Food & Diet
Hay & Pellets: We currently use orchard grass and/ or timothy hay for our bunnies. Alfalfa hay should only be used for bunnies under 6 months of age, but always mix with timothy hay as buns will tend to prefer the alfalfa to other hays as it is sweeter. We use the brand Standlee and purchase in bulk, but we also recommend Oxbow brand.
We currently use Producer’s Pride Rabbit feed from Tractor Supply.
Feeding Instructions:
A complete feed where no additional supplements are needed.
Feed 1/2 – 1 cup per day depending on the size of the rabbit.
Food may be offered free-choice or hand fed throughout the day.
Free-choice feeding is recommended for does with litters and weaned bunnies to achieve proper growth.
Monitor body condition and adjust feeding rates accordingly.
Provide plenty of clean, fresh water at all times.
Transition Instructions: Add 25% of new food to 75% of old food. Increase new food by 25% increments and decrease old food by 25% increments until transition is complete
Always introducing pellets slowly. 1 tablespoon at a time, and see how they do, if you bun gets to soft of poops, give more hay. Bunnies under 6 months may be free fed pellets, but sometimes they will over eat their pellets and cause stomach upset. When you first get your bun, I recommend feeding small amounts at a time by hand, allowing the bun to eat hay in between. If you feed the pellets more like a treat they will also bond to you better and associate you with something positive. When switching any foods, always introducing new foods slowly as your bun can get GI stasis if introduced to much to quickly.
Here are some good websites that go over what to feed your bunny:
http://www.therabbithouse.com/diet/
https://rabbit.org/suggested-vegetables-and-fruits-for-a-rabbit-diet/
DO NOT FEED YOUR BUNNY– ICEBERG LETTUCE, CHOCOLATE, COOKIES, CRACKERS, NUTS, SEEDS (other than occasionally black oil sunflower seeds) , BREAKFAST CEREALS , PASTA, YOGURT DROPS, or any other HUMAN TREATS. THIS CAN BE FATAL!!
90% of your bunnies diet should be HAY and should be given at ALL TIMES
1/4 cup pellets max daily for any buns 6 months or older.
Green leafy vegetables ( a loose pile approx. the size of their head daily)
Limit fruits to 1-2 tablespoons daily
Sugary fruits like bananas and grapes should only be given on occasion
Carrots are high in sugar, please do not give to young babies.
Vet Care
Always discuss with your veterinarian prior to treatment
You should check over your bunny at least 1x a month to ensure there are no injuries or concerns. Check to see if they need their nails trimmed, if they need a sanitary trim, if they have any teeth issues, or any wounds that may be hidden by their fur.
You should get a well check for your bunny at least 1x a year
Bunnies should be spayed or neutered around 6 months of age. If you do not spay or neuter your bunny you may notice behavior changes that are very unpleasant. It is also best if you plan on having multiple bunnies as bunnies are very territorial and can fight to the death.
Bunnies require an exotic vet which can often be very expensive.
Bunnies are really good at hiding illness. Some common illnesses are listed below:
Cancer in unspayed females
Aggressiveness and urine spraying if not neutered or spayed
Overgrown teeth- if misaligned have trimmed every 3 to 8 weeks
Diarrhea: true diarrhea is uncommon but soft stools called cecotropes (cecal poops) are common. Intermittent soft stools are normal and typically happen at night and normal hard ball feces (fecal poops) during the day. Bunnies also eat their cecotropes so do not be alarmed. That is normal and beneficial for you bunny. Check over your bunny DAILY to make sure no poop is stuck to their butt or fur. This can cause infection. If poop is stuck and you see red irritation you can clean and apply Neosporin. When cleaning first loosen the hard stool with water. Pat dry with a towel. Cut extra fur off if you need to but be careful not to cut any skin. Avoid giving your bunny a bath if possible. If for some reason you need to bath your bunny always avoid the ears, mouth , and nose.
Pasteruellosis- Also known as Pasteurella or snuffles and looks like a cold is HIGHLY CONTAGIOUS. Pasteurella is a overgrowth of bacteria that commonly inhabits a rabbit’s sinuses. When stressed the bacteria can cause infection throughout the body. Signs and symptoms include running nose with discharge, lose of appetite, decreased activity abnormal head posture, skin lesions, etc. Often vets will try to cure with antibiotics, but this tends to just mask the symptoms and the bunny may become a carrier or reinfection may occur.
Eye infections (Pink eye)- Use terramycin to treat
Fungal infections – Use ringworm ointment to treat
Urine Scald or Saliva Burn (caused by wet dewlap or drooling)- keep area dry. Use gentian violet or Neosporin to treat. But if a bunny is drooling, please seek a vet immediately as something may be wrong with your bunnies teeth or they may have an abscess.
Fleas
Mites- Use injectable ivermectin to treat. Please see your vet for proper treatment as if not given properly can lead to death .
Parasites (Worms)- Use Merck Safeguard Goat Dewormer called PANACUR Fenbendazole. Please speak with your vet before treating.
Bacteria Infections
Bladder infections – Use apple cider vinegar ( a few drops) in your buns water daily as a preventative. Always seek veterinarian advice if you suspect your bun could have a bladder infection.
Temperature
An indoor temperature of 60-70 degrees is recommended
Rabbits prefer cooler temps 32-70 degrees.
When temps exceed 70 degrees you may notice your bunny being more tired and resting more. Try not to disturb them as they can over heat and die.
Bunnies should not be in temps over 85 degrees inside or outside or they can get stressed and die.
Some breeds can tolerate heat better but there is still risk. I do not recommend having Holland lops outside if temperatures are hotter that 85 degrees.
Other information
NEVER punish your rabbit. If they are doing something you do not like you need to redirect them. For example if they are chewing on something you don’t want them to , give them something they can chew on.
Bunnies CAN nip. Typically they nip when they want you to move or do not like what you are doing It is how they communicate.
Bunnies WILL CHEW on electrical cords, baseboards, fabrics, plastics, wood, and metal. Please make sure they have something to chew on so that they can file their teeth. Bunnies teeth are always growing so it is very important they have chew toys and sticks. Please make sure that you create a safe area for your bunny so they can’t chew things they shouldn’t. If they chew on an electrical cord it can cause a fire.
Bunnies are fine as an only pet if you are able to give them plenty of attention. If not, you may get another bunny but the bunnies may bond to each other versus the human. Also, you must have both bunnies spayed/neutered prior to introducing as they can severely hurt each other or even kill each other.
If you would like to get another bunny, It is typically best to get a male and female or 2 females that are littermates.
Female and male bunnies both hump for dominance, they will circle each other, and hop over each other.
Female unspayed bunnies can go through a hormonal stage between 4 to 8 months. They may get moody, grunt, nip, dig, pull fur, and create a nest. The best thing to do is get your bunny spayed if you do not plan on breeding her.
Male unaltered bunnies can spray. If you do not want them to spray then please get them neutered.